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Tile BacksplashAnyone who has worked around sinks and counters knows the problems of splashes and messes that end up on the wall. A backsplash solves this problem, whether in a kitchen work area or around the bathroom sink. What is a backsplash? A backsplash is simply a waterproof shield that covers some or part of the wall surface above the level of the counter or sink. A backsplash can be made or ceramic tile, natural stone material like granite or marble tiles or slabs, or even metal materials like copper or metal tiles. Sometimes the backsplash matches the countertops, but many times the backsplash is a more whimsical, fun, decorative surface with interesting colors, details, and patterns.
Installing a Tile BacksplashHow do I install a tile backsplash? Is it something I can do myself? Installing a tile backsplash is something most DIY'ers can handle, requiring only an intermediate skill level in tools and techniques. If you've worked with tiles and grout before doing a floor or something, you pretty much know how it works. The tools and materials you need to install a backsplash are:
Your first step will be to measure the area ahead of time and select and order your tiles. You should always order about 5-10% more tiles than you think you need, as some will inevitably be cracked or broken during a big job, and it's nice to have some extras on hand if you need to replace a damaged tile in the future. Once you have your tiles, the next step is getting the wall ready. It's best to practice a dry layout of your tiles before getting started to see how they will fit, especially if you are planning to do patterns. Your tiles should be applied to a solid, dry wall. For very wet applications, cement backerboard is usually used, although direct application to wallboard and/or plywood is also common. You will normally start at the center of your wall space and work outwards from there. If your counter is tiled with grout lines, your goal will be to line up the grout lines on the backsplash to match the counter, so your starting tile will be determined by that. Chalk lines can be used to lay out straight lines for you to follow -- you'll want to occasionally use your level as well to make sure your lines are staying straight. If there are any electrical outlets in the area you are working, you need to power them off at the circuit breaker and remove the faceplates (keep in mind when you are done, you might need longer screws to reattach the faceplate covers due to the additional thickness of the tiles). Guide to Installing Tiles and GroutBefore installing the thinset or mastic adhesive that will hold the tiles to the wall, it is a good idea to first prep any wooden surfaces by sanding them gently with 80-100 grit sandpaper. This roughens up the surface a bit and gives the adhesive more to grab onto. Mastic is applied with a grooved trowel held at about a 45 degree angle to the wall - you will basically drag the trowel horizontally along the wall, and the grooves on the edge of the trowel will leave little raised rows of adhesive (the combination of raised rows and lowered rows leaves air pockets that help create extra suction and adhesion when you place the tiles). You can use a putty knife to slap some mastic on the wall, then use the trowel to drag it out. Your trowel should have groove depths that meet the specifications for your tile - for example, large tiles require extra adhesive and larger grooves. Your goal is to use plenty of adhesive so that at least 75-80% of the back surface of the tile has good contact, but avoid using too much that it squishes and wells up all around the tiles when they are put into place. Once the adhesive is laid out (do just a small section at a time so it does not dry out), you begin placing tiles, giving them a slight twist or wiggle as you put them into place and square them up. Between each tile and each row you will use little plastic tile spacers to keep standardized spacing between tiles. The pressure of the adjoining tiles will hold them into place - you remove them once the adhesive has set and the tiles are permanently held in place.Spacers come in different sizes, from 1/16 of an inch up to nearly 1/2 inch - you need to decide how wide you want your grout line to be to match the look of your tiles. At wall corners and around outlets and windows, you will need to trim and shape tiles from time to time. You can use a simple tile scorer and cutter to make cuts. If you have a lot of cutting to do, some people opt or renting a wet tile saw to quickly and perfectly get the cuts you need. As you work, you should wipe off any mastic that gets squeezed up between and around the tiles, using a damp cloth. Once your tiles are all in place, you need to wait and let the adhesive set, usually about 24 hours, though you can remove the spaces after a few hours. Next comes the grout work. Grout comes in literally hundreds of colors. Pick a color to complement your tiles. You can buy pre-mixed grout that comes out of a tub, or you can buy bags of dry powder and mix it yourself. Either way, you end up with a squishy, sandy material that needs to go into all those tile cracks. You use a flexible rubber tool called a grout float -- it looks a little like your grooved trowel but instead it has a soft rubber surface for squishing grout into the cracks. It's a good idea to cover your counters or work surface before doing this and all the prior steps to protect it from messy cleanup and scratches. Grout should also be applied with the float at about a 45 degree angle, as you gently push and work the grout into all the nooks and crannies. Yes, your tiles will look messy, but you will clean them up soon! To remove the excess grout, you use a damp sponge. You'll want to rinse frequently and use plenty of water, especially when using a sand-based grout, to keep from scratching your tile backsplash. After the tiles dry, you can further clean and polish them with a dry, clean cloth to remove any remaining grout residue. A grout sealer is recommended to keep the grout looking clean and new. The last step is sealing the bottom area that comes into contact with the countertop or sink. Anytime you work around a wet area, whether sinks or bathtubs or showers, you need to use a waterproof caulking material that resists mildew and remains slightly malleable. Simply apply a bead along the bottom edge and shape with a damp finger, wiping away any execess. When grout is mistakenly used in these areas, it often cracks and flakes away over time and exposure to water spills, resulting in water getting in behind the backsplash and counter - a big no-no! That's it - you've just completed your backsplash! Congratulations. For more backsplash help including some pictures, you can visit a few other helpful sites like: Lowes.com or http://www.canadianhomeworkshop.com/quickfix/tile_backsplash2.shtml or the DIYNetwork here.
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